Golf Handicap
Understanding the Golf Handicap

Many amateur golfers compete against each other on a daily basis. Even if they have different playing abilities, there is a system that allows them to compete against each other. The Golf Handicap system creates a level playing field between golfers of all abilities.
What is a Handicap

The USGA (United States Golf Association) introduced the golf handicap system in the early 1900’s. The purpose was to attempt to allow players of all abilities to play against each other and to create a level playing field. The Handicap system makes it possible for a very good golfer to compete against an average golfer and even has allowances for men competing against women and Seniors competing with young adults.

The Handicap System issues “Strokes” to the weaker golfer depending on their average score. The weaker player is allowed to deduct strokes from their score and at the end of the round, that score is then compared to the better golfer to determine the “net” winner. The Net Score is the gross score less any handicap strokes that the USGA determines that the golfer gets based on a unique formula.

The handicap formula is based on the difficulty of the course and the score that the better golfers would shoot if they played on the course. The better golfers are considered to be “scratch golfers”, that is, they play the course at the score that the designer expected to be the score to be. Many courses are a par 72, meaning that it takes 72 strokes to play the course.
How is the Handicap Determined

Every golfer that is issued a USGA handicap must follow some basic rules and post all of their scores in computers that are available at their golf courses. When they finish the round of golf, they add up their score and input that score in their scoring record. Every two weeks or so, the handicap system looks at those scores and takes the best 10 scores of the last 20 scores and takes 80% of the average scores to determine the handicap for that player. Adjustments are made for players that have really bad holes. Since those are not characteristic of a players scores, there are certain guidelines that allow for individual hole scores to be adjusted. This is called Equitable Stroke Control. A player can also have manual adjustments if they are injured or if they are improving faster than the system works or if they play much better in tournaments than they play in regular play.

Each golf club should have a Handicap Chairman and Handicap Committee who shall oversee their club and make sure that the handicap system is being used properly. A handicap committee has the right to look at an individual handicap and adjust it if they feel that it is not appropriate.
Peer Review

Golf is a game of honor and it is up to the individual golfers to play by the rules and report and post all of their scores to the handicap program. However, golf does allow for something that is called Peer Review. Peer Review means that all of your golf scores are public and can be examined by other players. Generally, club members are very aware of course handicaps and know when a player has played an exceptional score. In many golf clubs, the handicap computer is available right in a public viewing area and it is possible to check on any player at that club. It is important to have an accurate handicap so that players of all abilities can compete against one another.
How To Get a Handicap

The best way to get a USGA handicap is to inquire at your local golf course. They can put you in touch with a local club or organization that issues handicaps to their members. You can also inquire with your state golf association or you can call the USGA directly.

I’ve tried to give you a general overview of what a handicap is and how it is used. The USGA (United States Golf Association) has much more information and would be glad to help you with any questions you have.

Good Luck and enjoy the Game!

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Have you ever teed up your golf ball and began your preswing routine when the thought enters your mind that the golf ball height just doesn’t look right?

Have you ever hesitated in your routine because you think maybe you teed the ball too high or too low?

When placing the ball on the tee, it is very important to do so such that the ball will be struck properly by the driver. A ball teed to high will increase the chance of a pull. Whereas a ball teed too low will increase the chance of a push.

The correct height is completely dependent on the height of the driver being used. The general rule of thumb is this: Tee the ball up so that, when your club rests on the ground, 1/2 the ball is above the clubface.

Anyway, we’ve all stood over the ball and wondered if it’s teed at the proper height. No more guessing, for I have a solution for you:

Step Down Tees

The step down golf tees are designed to solve this problem every time you use them, for they are designed to guarantee a consistent ball height with every shot. They’re available in 6 sizes and can be used with irons or woods. The larger step down tees are used with the driver. The smaller step down tees are great for those iron shots, on the par 3’s.

Golf is a game where the flight of the ball and the results you achieve are affected by a number of variables. When you use the step down tees, you eliminate one of those variables. You can’t control everything on a golf course, but anything you can control, improves your probability of success. So the next time you tee it up, tee it up with confidence using a step down tee.

In this sequel to Buying Classic Ping Irons, I hope to answer many of the questions which have been sent to me since the original guide came out. Again, the main topic will be the second series of Ping irons: the Eye2, Eye2 +no+, Eye2+, Zing, Zing2 and ISI models sold from the mid 1980’s until the turn of the century. I don’t sell clubs on eBay. The opinions are my own.

Why buy a complete set?

In the first article, I stated that a buyer should seek a complete, matching serial number set (including the matching S and L wedges) without much explanation and with only oblique references to value. Why? Pings were cast in stainless steel, Beryllium Copper (BeCu) and Beryllium Nickel (BeNi). The casting process is not perfect in that sometimes small voids form within the castings and therefore individual heads will not necessarily have identical weight. When Ping assembles a set, it selects heads with comparable relative weights then assigns a serial number to the set and installs a steel or graphite shaft to achieve a target total weight. Thus, a matching set not only has serial numbers that match, it’s also swing-weighted to match. That’s the whole point of the geeky, engineering fun of Pings with the lie-angle fitting and proprietary shafts and all: the company has eliminated variables for you. Take advantage, pay a little extra and buy as large a matching set as you can. Plus, when you’re ready to sell, the more complete your set is, the higher the price it will fetch.

What’s a gap wedge and why do the Zing2 and ISI’s have so many different wedges?

First, a history lesson: Until the early 1980’s, most pros and amateurs carried two wedges: a sand wedge of approximately 55 degrees loft and a pitching wedge around 50 degrees. Around this time, some pros began replacing one of their long irons with a third wedge, called a lob wedge, around 60 degrees to assist them around the green. Ping was one of the first manufacturers to offer an L-wedge as part of a set in the Eye2 series.

Next, a physics lesson: There are two ways to make a club hit the ball farther: decrease its loft (make it stronger) and increase its shaft length. As seen below, manufacturers including Ping do both. But one club has a limitation: for some reason, for most people, a sand wedge with less than 55 degrees of loft really doesn’t work very well out of the sand. This has to do with the interrelationship between the loft of the club, the amount of bounce of the club and the sand itself. Unless you are truly gifted with wedges or play a course with no traps, you need a sand wedge for sand with between 55 and 58 degrees of loft.

Finally, a marketing lesson: If you’ve ever wondered how manufacturers seem to come out with succeeding generations of clubs that hit it farther, the answer is they don’t; they cheat. Beginning in the late ’80s and continuing to the present day, manufacturers, including Ping, have progressively strengthened the loft on their short- and mid-irons and slightly increased the length of the clubs so that you will hit a new “8-iron” farther than your old one. The fact is, you should because that new 8-iron is almost the same loft and length as your old 7-iron.

But, as we noted, if you strengthened a sand wedge, it wouldn’t work out of the sand. So as the irons and pitching wedge had their lofts progressively strengthened (reduced), a loft gap of some ten degrees developed between the new pitching wedges and the more or less static sand wedges. This gap has come to be filled by “gap” or “utility” wedges around 52 degrees. And if you wanted something with more loft to use around the greens, a lob wedge remained around 60 degrees.

Don’t believe me? Here’s the loft data from Ping:

1i 2i 3i 4i 5i 6i 7i 8i 9i PW U/S L/S L

Eye2 16 18.5 21.5 25 28.5 32 36 40 45 50.5 * 57.5 61

Zing2 15.5 18 20.5 24 27 30.5 34.5 38.5 42.5 47 52 57 61

I3 15.5 18 20.5 24 27 30.5 34.5 38.5 42.5 47 52 56 60

I5 * 18.5 21 24 27 30.5 34 38 42 46 50 54 58

* not offered; Zing, Zing2 and ISI irons had identical lofts

I5s are .75 of an inch longer (almost two clubs worth) across the board, than Eye2.

And lest you think I’m picking on Ping, I’m not: the statistical information released by Callaway, Cleveland and Titleist indicate a similar trend in their clubs as well.

In any event, Ping tried to capitalize on the interest in wedges by offering six different wedges in the Zing2 and ISI series to allow the customer to pick the wedges he or she wanted:

W - 47 W2 - 49.5 S - 52 S2 - 54.5 S3 or L/S - 57 L - 61

These wedges were offered in stainless steel (with the S3 marked as L/S) and BeCu in the Zing2 and in the same metals plus BeNi in the ISI models. My thought is that for a four wedge mix, you need W, S, S3 and L as the S3 is the only true, albeit weak, sand wedge of the bunch. Even if you go with three wedges you’ve got to have a mixture that includes the S3 or use the L out of the sand. They’re all good wedges but some thought needs to be given as to which ones to carry.

Holy Grails

Most Ping collectors are interested in the Eye2 model with a complete BeCu 1-L commanding the most attention. One guide lists the Eye2 + no + as the only truly collectable Ping. I disagree. There are other equally rare Pings out there. Two that come to mind are a matching number set of 1-L, BeNi or BeCu ISI (15 clubs, 9 irons and 6 wedges) or all six Zing2 BeCu wedges with matching numbers. I’ve not seen either of these items for sale on eBay since 2001.

EBay itself has brought a new dimension to buying Pings. Used Pings used to be a rare commodity that traded infrequently. You had to know somebody or be standing there when someone brought them into the pro shop or driving range to trade in order to buy used Pings. Now with eBay, at any given time there are several sets of every kind of Ping for sale and at least five or six sets of BeCu clubs for sale during an average week. The net effect is that the prices have gone down.

While a Ping set in good condition will probably recover at least what you paid for it, some of the premium is gone. For instance, a 1-L set of BeCu Zings sold new around $60 per club, which is about what you would pay for a complete set in good condition today. Eye2 BeCu were cheaper and sell higher but only the Eye2 + no + sell at a significant premium (in the area of 100% and only for truly complete sets in good condition). Remember the old economics standby, price is a function of supply and demand. EBay has exponentially increased supply (through access) from what it was five years ago and demand has apparently remained steady or relatively constant, therefore the price of the sets has gone down. Some value guides exist that do not take into account the accessibility of clubs on eBay, and therefore have inflated prices. Ignore those guides and watch for yourself how much the clubs you’re interested in go for before committing to buy.

Remember that 99% of all of the Ping clubs sold on eBay are not collectable, regardless of what the seller indicates. In ten years, the only “collectable” clubs will be complete 1-L or possibly 2-L sets with all matching numbers, regardless of alloy. Everything else should be out on the course being played as these clubs’ continued playability is the basis for their present retained value. Think about it, how often do you see a collectable set like old MacGregor Kolorchromes or Wilson Dyna-Powers from the ’60s up on a wall somewhere? In ten years, individual Ping clubs will be in a barrel in the shops of driving ranges. Any new modern wedge has better, sharper square grooves and puts more spin on the ball than the best-preserved Eye2 or Eye2+ lob wedge. If the Eye2 wedges were as good as the breathless representations of some sellers, every tour pro would have one and they don’t. Ignore the hype - - play the Pings.

Questions about new Pings

I divide Pings into three groups, the original irons, I - VI and original Eyes, as the first group (simple cast clubs with small cavity backs and varying sole weighting), the second group as the Eye2 - ISI models (more complex castings, cavity back with varying perimeter weighting) and the third group as I3, I3+, G2, and I5/G5 (cavity back with a tuning port). S58 and S59 we’ll call Blades. Rapture and G10/I10 might start a new generation with emphasis on toe-weighting. It’s been at least ten years since I saw someone actually playing a first generation Ping iron set, therefore I would say that these clubs are more collectable than playable. A complete set might have value to a collector or historian. I also think its too early to tell about the staying power of the newer models. I thought an S59 set would hold its value well but they are now selling at less than half price used. I know a number of people who went from Eye2+ to I3 and back to their Eye2+s. It’s important to remember that the reason that the second generation of Pings have held value so well is because of their fine playing qualities. These qualities hold up favorably against any modern equipment including new Pings.

Rank?

Some people asked for a ranking. Ranking these clubs is by nature a very subjective exercise. Before somebody gets bent out of shape on this, the following rank is my opinion of the playability qualities of the Ping irons of the second and third generations annotated accordingly. I’ve played them, talked to friends about them and this is what I think:

1) (tie) Eye2+ no+ / Eye2+ - indistinguishable by hitting alone; workable; great for any level amateur

3) (tie) S59/S58 - great for a scratch amateur; add Ping wedges and you have the ultimate set; not for beginners

5) Zing - for the good amateur who doesn’t have time to work on his game; more forgiving than Eye2+; very ugly

6) Zing2 - #1 for a beginner; largest, most forgiving club Ping ever made; hardest to work; kinda ugly

7) G5 - best of the third generation clubs for average golfers; solid feel; more up-to-date than Eye2
I3+ (blade or regular)- Subtle, solid improvement of the I3s; might be the best value of third generation

9) (tie) I5 / I3 - O.K. clubs but try 1 -8 first

11) Eye2 - Good all-around club; wide sole good in soft turf areas; still a solid performer after 20 years

12) G2 - G2 chrome detail peels off; HL long irons not as good as true hybrids

13) ISI - the worst feeling Pings of all; small sweet spot; early Cushin shaft inserts broke loose; wedges O.K.

I haven’t tried the Raptures or G10s yet. All of the Ping wedges are excellent.

1-11 are just as good as anything made today. Workability is the club’s responsiveness to shaping shots by a better player. Forgiveness is the ability of the clubs to hit an acceptably long, straight shot on an off-center hit. Early third generation clubs have a problem with the urethane inserts in the tuning port falling out. Ping will usually replace these at no cost.

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Buyer Beware! If purchasing any type of outside ice skating rink from treasuretrader4u, DON’T. The product, Reddi Rink, can be located everywhere else on the WWW for 1/3 the cost and FREE shipping from most places (not an over inflated shipping cost this seller charges…it cost him $27, he charged $89.95). AND, it’s merely a 10′ x 20′ sheet of plastic. So, if you want a bigger rink, you don’t get one sheet of plastic, but two, three or four pieces of plastic.

I have been playing hockey at a high level for a little over 15 years and I know about hockey tape. Let’s face it, there are many kinds of tape out there and sometimes it can be hard to choose. I will give you a description of each kind. After that, I’ll give you some tips for taping. There are four main kinds of hockey tape…they consist of friction, white cloth, black cloth, and clear (poly). WHY USE HOCKEY TAPE? because it protects the blade of your stick from moisture-which can weaken your blade. Besides protection, tape cushions your blade giving you a better feel of the puck. WHITE AND BLACK CLOTH: These types of tape are made out of the same materials and only differ by color. White and Black are the most common type of tape used on the ice. This tape has a very good resistance to moisture. Which makes it ideal for use on the blade of your stick. White and black are also used at the butt of your stick for better grip. There is an ongoing debate on what tape is better to use on your blade. There are many reasons to use each. White tape allows you to better see the puck on our stick. Black tape blends in with puck giving the tape a disguise. ALL goalies use white tape on their blades. This is so they can see the puck when it’s on their stick. FRICTION: Friction is black tape that is sticky on both sides. Players who use friction tape are looking for a different feel of the puck. Also, friction tape resists moisture better than any other tape. CLEAR (POLY): Clear tape is strickly used for taping legs or knee pads. Most players tape over there socks to get a tighter fit. Clear tape is ideal for taping your knee pads because of its ability to stretch. It also has extremely strong adhesives. HOW TO TAPE A STICK: The majority of players start from the heel of their stick and tape to the toe, leaving about 2 inches between the tip of the blade and the tape. TAPING THE BUTT-END: When applying tape to the butt-end of your stick, leave just enough tape to leave you with a good grip. Your upper-hand is the hand which controls your stickhandling-you need that hand to move freely. Having a big knob only makes things worse. GOALIES: Ignore what I just said! You NEED a big knob on your stick. IMPORTANT!!!! when taping the the butt of your stick do not use friction-it will destroy your palm of your glove and leave it sticky. any more questions? search “hockey tape” and look for e-hockeytape

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The stiff section at the end of a fly fishing rod helps strengthen the rod and can help you reel in a fish. Hold the rod against your body or the ground and use it as leverage when fighting your potential catch.

Butt plate: Butt plates come on rods that use line weights one through six.

Fighting extension: An extension behind the reel seat helps anglers fight larger fish. You will find fighting extensions on rods that use line weights seven and higher.

Hold your fly fishing rod reel in place
The reel seat holds the reel in place so that your line properly lines up with your guides.

Up-locking reel seats: Popular on medium and heavy rods, up-locking reels provide room between your reel and the end of the rod and rarely get in the way.

Down-locking reel seats: Down-locking reel seats located at the end of a rod work the same way as up-locking reel seats. Its position can make it difficult to fight a fish.

Sliding band reel seats: Two sliding bands hold the foot of the reel. It is used on some light rods fitted with light reels and the bands do not lock.

Grip your fly fishing rod
An angler holds a fly fishing rod at the cork, also called the grip.

Cigar grips: This thin cork protrudes slightly in the center. You will find it on lighter-weight rods used to catch smaller fish.

Half-well grips: Used on medium-weight rods, the half-well has a flare on one end that allows you a better grip when fighting medium-sized fish. It may also help you achieve a longer cast.

Full-well grips: Prevalent on heavier rods, full-well cork is thicker than other cork, allowing a better grip for fighting large fish.

Get to know fly fishing rod guides
Fly fishing rods use three types of loops to guide your line.

Stripping guides: The first guide on a rod helps prevent the line from tangling and reduces friction between the line and other guides.

Snake guides: The majority of the guides on a rod are snake guides. These small metal loops keep the line close to the rod when you cast.

Tip-top guide: The guide at the top of the rod keeps the line close to the rod and helps controls which direction a line goes when you cast.

Discover a fly fishing rod you’ll love and use by evaluating materials, action, and length.

Assess fly fishing rod materials
Manufacturers make fly fishing rods out of fiberglass or graphite. Each has its benefits.

Fiberglass fly fishing rods: Experts and beginners can use popular fiberglass fly fishing rods in most fishing conditions. The durable material usually stands up to wear better than graphite fly fishing rods.

Graphite fly fishing rods: More expensive than fiberglass, lightweight graphite fly fishing rods typically allow more accurate casting.

Determine fly fishing rod flexibility
Action, the amount of fly fishing rod stiffness or flexibility, comes into play when you cast and when you attempt to reel in a fish.

Slow-action fly fishing rods: Reel in small lightweight fish with these flexible fly fishing rods. Slow-action fly fishing rods have the most bend, making them difficult for beginners to control, but offer the greatest accuracy for short-range casting.

Medium-action fly fishing rods: Beginners find medium-action fly fishing rods easy to handle. They offer a little flexibility with the rod bending in the middle and at the tip. Use them for short and long-range casting.

Fast-action fly fishing rods: Stiff fast-action fly fishing rods bend at the end of the rod and do not have a lot of give. They make a good choice for long-distance casting and reeling in large fish. However, they do not offer the accuracy of a short-action rod and beginners often find them difficult to handle.

Look at fly fishing rod length
Length also factors into fly fishing rod action. Shorter rods generally have less action than longer fly fishing rods because they generate less torque when casting and reeling. Beginners will want a rod long enough to provide a good casting distance, but short enough to maneuver in the water. Medium-sized fly fishing rods between eight and nine feet provide the action, casting control, and strength you’ll need.

Short fly fishing rods: Use short fly fishing rods measuring less than eight feet in tight fishing situations where trees, bushes, stream size, or other objects will restrict your movement.

Medium fly fishing rods: Use medium-sized eight or nine-foot fly fishing rods in most fly fishing conditions. They allow for longer casting and can handle more weight than shorter rods.

Large fly fishing rods: Measuring more than nine feet, large fly fishing rods make the ideal choice for longer casting and pursuing big-game fish.

New fly fishermen should look for an eight- or nine-foot rod made of graphite or fiberglass with medium action.

Tennis: Tennis equipment and apparel, including tennis racquets, tennis balls, and tennis shoes, skirts, shorts, polo shirts, socks, visors, hats, t-shirts, tank tops, and sports bras are popular with tennis players of all ages.

Golf: Buyers are looking for individual golf clubs and sets which normally have at least 12 clubs. Drivers and fairway woods made of stainless steel or titanium, irons, and wedges are popular. You can also sell harder to find golf clubs for left-handed (lh) players, clubs designed for women, and junior golf clubs.

Baseball equipment—bats, gloves, hats, jerseys, hitting machines, and more—are popular searches on eBay. Manufacturers such as Easton, Worth, Louisville Slugger, DeMarini, Nike, and Rawlings construct bats out of a variety of durable materials such as aluminum, graphite, titanium, and wood. Gloves in all sizes, models, and brands are also in demand—from catcher’s mitts to first base mitts and infielder baseball gloves with open backs and closed webs to outfielder baseball gloves with open webs. You can even sell your baseball and softball pitching machines and accessories such as baseballs, batting helmets, catcher’s masks, chest protectors, shin guards, cleats, jerseys, sunglasses, training aids such as books and videos, batting cages, and speed sensors