Paso Fino Headgear… It is Very Important to the Correct Ride

As you may have noticed, Paso Fino tack is astronomically expensive and you will have sticker shock when you go to buy it. The main reason for this is that the gear for Paso Finos is very breed specific. It is not as if you can go to any tack store and find the appropriate stuff. Therefore, since it is not generic, it is expensive and available only in limited locations.

The headgear is the MOST important piece of equipment that you need for your new Paso Fino. You can ride many different types of saddles, but if you want the best gait, the headgear is vitally important to the headset and the rear end collection that distinguish the gait in a Paso. The headgear is not called a bridle. It is a jaquima, pronounced HAC-i-ma. This is not a hackamore that you may be familiar with. It is made up of the following pieces:

Headstall: This part goes over the ears and consists of the cheek straps, the browband, and a throatlatch type of arrangement.

Bosal: This is the piece that goes over the top of the nose.

Barbada: This is the chin strap under the chin.

Pisador: This is the long line from the throatlatch.

Bit Hanger: The bit and bit hanger are separate pieces from the jaquima.

All of the above pieces can be changed according to the behavior and the needs of your particular horse. There is no standard for what you may need. However, do not start changing pieces unless you know what you are doing or can get some help. The handbooks on ebay are good resources for this issue. Your best bet is to try to buy the appropriate headgear with the horse that you buy. If not, then take a photograph of what the horse has been using to show to a tack dealer. Be sure you take photos of all parts of the headgear to make sure you can duplicate it. Good luck and enjoy your Paso Fino.

Seat size is measured differently and is scaled differently for English and Western saddles. All types of English saddle seats are measured from the metal rivet (or screw) on the side of the pommel (front top) to the center of the top of the cantle (the raised back portion of the saddle). A hunter/jumper seat sized for a typical child’s saddle will be 13 -14″, a youth or small adult will be 15 - 16″, a regular female or slender male will be about 17″, and a male or large female about 18″. If a person is very tall they may want to go with an extra inch of size to let the knees lay on the flaps properly. A cut back (saddleseat) saddle’ s sizes will generally run about 4″ larger, ie: a youth’s saddle would run about 19 to 20″ for proper fit. Dressage saddles tend to run an inch or two larger than a hunt saddle,. but you need to be careful here - if the seat is cut very deeply it will feel very differrent from one that is cut a little shallower. The same holds true to a lesser degree for Western saddles. They are measured from the inside top of the cantle (the back) to the inside top of the pommel right below the horn. A regular female is most often quite comfortable in a 15″ seat, and an average male in a 16″ seat. Again this is only a general rule of thumb…a wider seat may “sit” bigger than a narrower one and depending on how deep the seat is dwill affect the rider’s feel. Before you shop - sit in as many saddles as possible to find the style and seat size that best suits you.

The purpose of this guide to assist riders in making a determination as to whether a treeless saddle would benefit them or their horses.

The following is based on my personal experience with the BOB MARSHALL SPORT SADDLE. I have not had any experience with other saddles, and therefore cannot attest to their quality or lack thereof. Also, all of my experiences are based on arena and trail use.

1. Exactly what are those weird things?!

Bob Marshall Treeless Sport Saddles (hereafter referred to as BMSS) are exactly what they imply: saddles constructed without the use of a saddle tree.

2. Is this a new concept?

No, it’s not. Modern treeless saddles have been around for many years, and the concept is gaining in popularity as more and more riders are discovering the comfort these saddles afford both themselves and their mounts.

3. What styles do they come in?

BMSS are available in trail, endurance and barrel racing models. Also on the market now are various english/dressage type treeless saddles and even a hybrid english/endurance/trail version. They are called “Sensation” saddles and I belive they are made by a company called “Nickers.” Note: These saddles have some specific requirements that both horse and rider must meet, so please discuss these carefully with a dealer when ordering. They include weight restrictions on riders, and body specifications on horses. They recommend a weight limit of no more than 200 lb for the rider and claim they are best suited although certainly not limited to broad backed, flat withered horses like Friesians, Missouri Foxtrotters, etc. You can learn about them by typing the name Sensation Saddle into any search engine. I have never tried one, so I can’t really say if I care for them or not. Anyone having any experience with them is welcome to email me and let me know how they like them.

4. Is an Orignial Bob Marshall Sport Saddle the same as a “Bob Marshall Circle Y” saddle?

No. When I had my first BMSS made, I had to speak with the factory about some specifics, and I could not resist asking what the differences are. I was told that the Circle Y brand of sport saddle is not nearly as well constructed as an original BMSS. The story I got was this: When Bob Marshall first started out in the saddle business, he needed investors, and Circle Y agreed to help him. In exchange for this help, Bob Marshall allowed Circle Y to re-produce a certain number of his saddles each year. Therefore, Circle Y saddles are not, nor have ever been produced in the Bob Marshall factory. Now, I cannot attest to the truth of the statements the factory manager made, but it does all make sense. I have carefully examined the Circle Y “spin-offs” as I call them, and they do not appear to be the same. However, I also can’t attest to their quality because I have not ridden one nor do I plan to, as I am happy with my orignial BMSS saddles. So, that’s the story as it was told to me!

5. Will the BMSS fit my horse?

These saddles will fit a variety of differently sized and shaped horses. I have used mine on many different horses, and never had a problem with any of them. Note: Although the BMSS will fit many average horses, some with very high withers or other concerns may need a customized saddle. Again, discuss these issues with your dealer or the person selling the saddle to make sure you will get a saddle that fits your horse if he has an unusual body shape.

6. How does it feel to ride in a treeless saddle?

For those of you who have ridden bareback and like it, the feeling will be very similar. You will be able to feel your horse move under you and communicate very effectively with him. If you have never ridden bareback and have always had a tree between you and the horse, then the sensation of riding in a BMSS may feel odd to you initially. At first, you may feel like you are a bit unbalanced because you are sitting MUCH lower on his back than you are used to and moving WITH his body instead of being a stationary object perched on top of him. However, your lower center of gravity will afford you a higher degree of safety and security in the saddle, and after a few weeks, you may never want to go back to a “hard” saddle again!

7. Can I use just any saddle pad with my BMSS?

No! Because there is no tree to spread out the pressure of your weight on the horse’s back, you should use a good quality open-celled foam “equalizer” pad. These pads help spread and equalize the weight of the rider over a large portion of the horse’s back, thus greatly reducing pressure areas. They also help keep pressure off the spine. The only brand I have used is the SKITO pad, but there are others out on the market if you want to shop around. Whatever you choose, make sure it is designed to be used with treeless saddles or your horse may suffer back problems.

8. What size seat do I need?

Because the BMSS has no tree, they tend to “cup” up a bit when the rider is mounted. For western models, I suggest that you purchase a saddle at least 1 to 1 1/2 sizes bigger than your usual size, depending on how snug you like your saddles. For the english model, consult a dealer or the seller of the saddle for sizing information.

9. Can heavier riders use a BMSS.

Yes! I am a plus sized rider with a sturdy, short backed horse and she carries me fine in my BMSS. Again, be CERTAIN to obtain a quality open-celled foam pad for your saddle to disperse your weight, and you can even consider having extra shims along the spine area if you are a heavy person. NOTE: MOST IMPORTANTLY OF ALL: Make sure you are riding a healthy, fit horse that is built to carry a rider of your particular size or weight. If in doubt, consult your vet or trainer.

10. Will my horse like a BMSS?

Not one single horse that I have ever used my saddles on has seemed to dislike the saddle. I currently have 3 saddle horses but have used BMSS saddles on several other horses I have owned in the past with great results. My own saddle has been on our 2 Missouri Foxtrotter mares, our 16 H lean Quarter/Appie, a 14 H Arab/Welch mix, a 15 H paint, a 15 H arab, and a 15.1 H quarter. A friend also tried it on her horse, who has withers like a Wildebeast. He was the only horse that needed a peaked pommel to accomodate his withers, but it fit perfectly on all the other horses of different sizes and shapes.

Most horses will move out better and happier without the pinching, bridging or rubbing that some traditional saddles with trees may cause. Like all saddles, the BMSS may not suit every single horse, but the majority of horses seem to appreciate them as much as the rider.

11. Do these saddles slip when I mount or dismount?

They can. If you are a person that lingers in the stirrup when mounting, or puts a lot of weight into the stirrups when riding, the saddle may shift a bit. It is always kinder to the horse and your own body to use a mounting block when possible, but a fit rider with proper mounting skills will have no trouble mounting without one and the saddle will stay in place fine. When dismounting, again, if you linger with your weight in the stirrup, the saddle CAN slip some.

I have seen beginners riding in BMSSaddles mount and dismount perfectly the first time, and I have seen experienced riders who have never ridden anything without a tree dump the entire saddle upside down, especially when dismounting, so it can go either way.

The safest way that I have been taught to dismount is to swing the right leg over the cantle, kick your left foot out of the stirrup, and slide to the ground. This method prevents your foot from getting caught in the stirrup should the horse spook or move, and also prevents the saddle from shifting too much. I don’t have a choice; my legs are so short and my horse’s barrel so big that the stirrups don’t even clear her girth, and if I tried to dismount by leaving my left foot in the stirrup the entire way down the way the cowboy movies depict, my leg would be so high up in the air I would fall backwards with it still attached to the stirrup. Not good! So…If my big, physically impaired booty can dismount without tipping the saddle, I am sure smaller, more athletic people can as well.

Tags: 175

I recently purchased the New High Sierra hydration pack with the two liter water pack. I bought this in a buy it now auction for $20.96 including shipping, and let me tell you, it was well worth the price! At $65.00 as a suggested retail price you are getting quite the deal by buying from the ebay store (thesportsmanguide). The quality and useability of this backpack is amazing! I personally like the VAPEL(R) mesh air flow padded back. It creates an air pocket between you and the backpack actually holding the pack away from you as an added body cooling mechanism. Many other great features of the pack include: an insulated water tube, hidden rain cover in bottom pocket, sternum and waist straps all heavy duty and fully adjustable. There is also reflective piping down the back and sides so you will be more visible at night, plus the whole pack is made of a heavy duty 600-denier Duralite and ripstop shell. I have owned another hydration back pack by Jansport and although it is nice I think the New Seirra is a step above. The size of this pack was also a feature I was pleased with, not to big, not so small. The actual cubic capacity is not listed anywhere on the tags but the size is listed as 16″x12.5″x6″. I would say you could probably fit two college size text books along with a lunch into the main pocket with room left over in the outer pocket. All things considered, this is well worth the money if you are looking for a hydro back pack, and if you come across one for such a deal on ebay or anywhere else youjust might consider it. Thanks for visiting!

I bought 5 LED flashlights in the last year for me and my family and feel I may help someone in the market for an extremely small / extremely bright flashlight. These lights are rated by the manufacturers as 3 watt, 5 watt and 8 watt. These are not to be confused with single or multiple ordinary LED bulbs. (actually, not a bulb, but a light emitting diode). They use one LED bulb (or emitter), either Luxeon, made by Lumileds, a division of Phillips (an American company) or Lumleds, an Asian company, recently acquired by Phillips, as I understand it. Either way, they are both very bright. They were all manufactured in and shipped from China or Taiwan. I ordered from three different vendors and would recommend any of them. Just pay with Paypal and there should not be a problem.

3 watt LED

The 3 watt light is machined aluminum, and has an anodized coating, like paint only much harder. It is brighter than a two cell C or D battery flashlight, but is much smaller. It measures 1.1875 inch X 4.25 inch The 3 watt lights I have use 3 AAA batteries. The only complaint I have is that it is hard to keep the batteries in contact. The springs holding the batteries seem to not have enough tension, thus you have to stretch them occasionally to get a good contact point.

The 5 watt and 8 watt lights are almost identical with the 3 watt except they are 1.3125 inch X 5.5 inch, use 2 RCR123A LI-ION batteries and come with a charger. The 5 watt and the 8 watt LED lights are very dependable and are a joy to use.

8 WATT LED ON TOP, MAKITA ON BOTTOM
WHICH ONE WOULD YOU RATHER CARRY?

The 8 watt LED is about twice as bright as the 3 watt and 5 times as bright as my Makita 7.2 volt flashlight (which measures 2.5 inch X 10.5 inch). Measured with a light meter, the 8 watt puts out 35 foot candles while the Makita puts out 7 foot candles at the same distance. (about 12 feet). The 8 watt is awsome for it’s size.

Beam of 8 watt LED

The pieces of the light screw together and are sealed with O-rings and are advertised as submersible. The O-rings are metric and available at any well stocked hardware store.

One word of caution—-Don’t shine these in any one’s eyes. I accidentally shined the 5 watt in my eyes and it was like an arc welder burn. I had a retina burn for two hours.

If you don’t know what kind of shaft is right for you, go to a pro shop and get fitted. The shaft makes a huge difference in the club you use. You can have two drivers with the exact same club head, but two difference shafts. The ball flights will be different and can change your game.

I will leave it up to you to learn what is correct for you, but here are some basic info on shafts:

Graphite shafts are lighter, which will increase your swing speed, and this can increase your distance.

Low Kick shaft - helps get the ball in the air quicker

Mid Kick shaft - helps produce a ball flight not as high as the low kick

High Kick shaft - helps give you a lower more boring ball flight. Typically for the better golfers.

Each person has a different swing. What works for one person does not mean it will work for others. There are other options when looking into shafts, and that is the shaft having a soft tip or stiff tip. Again, go get fitted for the best results.

The wrong shaft can mean 20 or more less yards. It can also mean the difference in hitting the right side of the fairway versus the middle. If you find you typically hit the right side of the fairway, that means your shaft could be too stiff. The simple change from stiff to regular can effect what side of the fairway your typical drive lands.

Have you ever teed up your golf ball and began your preswing routine when the thought enters your mind that the golf ball height just doesn’t look right?

Have you ever hesitated in your routine because you think maybe you teed the ball too high or too low?

When placing the ball on the tee, it is very important to do so such that the ball will be struck properly by the driver. A ball teed to high will increase the chance of a pull. Whereas a ball teed too low will increase the chance of a push.

The correct height is completely dependent on the height of the driver being used. The general rule of thumb is this: Tee the ball up so that, when your club rests on the ground, 1/2 the ball is above the clubface.

Anyway, we’ve all stood over the ball and wondered if it’s teed at the proper height. No more guessing, for I have a solution for you:

Step Down Tees

The step down golf tees are designed to solve this problem every time you use them, for they are designed to guarantee a consistent ball height with every shot. They’re available in 6 sizes and can be used with irons or woods. The larger step down tees are used with the driver. The smaller step down tees are great for those iron shots, on the par 3’s.

Golf is a game where the flight of the ball and the results you achieve are affected by a number of variables. When you use the step down tees, you eliminate one of those variables. You can’t control everything on a golf course, but anything you can control, improves your probability of success. So the next time you tee it up, tee it up with confidence using a step down tee.

Please use caution when buying any kind of motorized vehicle on here.I believe 2 yrs ago I was looking to purchase a golf cart,found a decent looking one with a “buy it now” price and figured why go through the bidding and offered buy it now price. Well seller contacted me and said he was insured through Square trade and would ship cart from Italy so he would’nt have to pay thier taxes(which was reason for selling it) since he took it there from U.S. I checked out square trade they seemed to be legitimate company as I had’nt heard of them before, as things progressed and numorous emails, I WENT TO WESTERN UNION AND SENT 1500.00 TO PERSON AND ALSO ASKED FOR SIGNATURE AS RECIEVED. person wrote back that cash was recived and cart was being shipped imeditaly. Never heard from person again. contacted ebay ,Square Trade, made police report, called FBI they wouldnt help unless over 100,000.00. had photo graphes of cart with address in back ground and red bow on pole beside it.Asked Western union who had signed for my money and if they had security cameras, they said they dont ask for ID. sheriff department said they wouldnt waste tax payers money on out of country crime.Ebay explained that once I had emailed the person and they emailed me we had left Ebay and there were not responsible.So I took it as a lesson well learned. UNTIL my golf cart shows up in California different person but has SAME PIC with adress on it and red bow with golf cart. SO i reported it to ebay and gentleman wrote me saying he would never sell his golf cart that cheap and was 1000.00 more than I had sent other person. so now i reported it to computer fraud and they too would not get involved in an international problem. So I gave up after another trip to sheriff’s office to no avail. Numorous others have been taken by this scam from motorcycles to boats to atv’s. JUST A WORD OF CAUTION WHEN BUYING SOMETHING , DO YOUR RESEARCH AND BE CAUTIOUS OF ANYTHING THAT SOUNDS TO GOOD OR TOO LOW PRICED TO BE TRUE. Hopefully this may save alot of heartache.

Tags: 107

Please give a helpful ”Yes” vote to this guide. Your vote will help others to see this guide and avoid getting ripped off.

I was in the market for the R7 Superquad and started searching on Ebay. The SuperQuad retails for $399.00 in the golf retail stores. I found several “Buy Now” deals for as little as $250.00. There were even people selling heads only for less than $200.00.

Most if not all of the auctions with heads only were from China or Hong Kong. The sellers had a mixture of feedback with 1 or 2 out of 10 negative due to fake driver. The sellers usually do not have a great number of feedbacks.

The selling method has changed somewhat lately with the fakes being sold by users registered in the USA but still heads only. The other problem now is there have been hundreds if not thousands of fake drivers sold to USA buyers. These buyers are now selling the fakes once they find out. Here is a list of what to look for and how to avoid being sold a fake.

I have been playing hockey at a high level for a little over 15 years and I know about hockey tape. Let’s face it, there are many kinds of tape out there and sometimes it can be hard to choose. I will give you a description of each kind. After that, I’ll give you some tips for taping. There are four main kinds of hockey tape…they consist of friction, white cloth, black cloth, and clear (poly). WHY USE HOCKEY TAPE? because it protects the blade of your stick from moisture-which can weaken your blade. Besides protection, tape cushions your blade giving you a better feel of the puck. WHITE AND BLACK CLOTH: These types of tape are made out of the same materials and only differ by color. White and Black are the most common type of tape used on the ice. This tape has a very good resistance to moisture. Which makes it ideal for use on the blade of your stick. White and black are also used at the butt of your stick for better grip. There is an ongoing debate on what tape is better to use on your blade. There are many reasons to use each. White tape allows you to better see the puck on our stick. Black tape blends in with puck giving the tape a disguise. ALL goalies use white tape on their blades. This is so they can see the puck when it’s on their stick. FRICTION: Friction is black tape that is sticky on both sides. Players who use friction tape are looking for a different feel of the puck. Also, friction tape resists moisture better than any other tape. CLEAR (POLY): Clear tape is strickly used for taping legs or knee pads. Most players tape over there socks to get a tighter fit. Clear tape is ideal for taping your knee pads because of its ability to stretch. It also has extremely strong adhesives. HOW TO TAPE A STICK: The majority of players start from the heel of their stick and tape to the toe, leaving about 2 inches between the tip of the blade and the tape. TAPING THE BUTT-END: When applying tape to the butt-end of your stick, leave just enough tape to leave you with a good grip. Your upper-hand is the hand which controls your stickhandling-you need that hand to move freely. Having a big knob only makes things worse. GOALIES: Ignore what I just said! You NEED a big knob on your stick. IMPORTANT!!!! when taping the the butt of your stick do not use friction-it will destroy your palm of your glove and leave it sticky. any more questions? search “hockey tape” and look for e-hockeytape

Tags: 125